Hidden Secrets of the Hides
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“In northern New Mexico, we don’t have time for a short story,” says Levi Romero, with a wry smile. Perhaps that’s why he chose poetry as his storytelling path. (more…)
Destinations
tonight the stars are bright and plentiful and with our necks craning up toward the sky (more…)
Friday, January 5, 1912, dawned cold and blustery in Santa Fe as a feeble sun attempted to defrost the frozen ground. The year had started colder than usual, twelve degrees below the normals recorded since 1872. (more…)
Some called him the rico (rich man), others the patrón (the boss), the cacique (head man), or the jefe político (political boss). Whatever the appellation, Victor de Jesús Ortega was a strong—some might say domineering—leader in Chimayó.
But his influence went far beyond the confines of the small plaza where he was born and raised. Through sheer force of character—and a particular gift for oratory and politicking—he earned positions in regional government, including justice of the peace, probate judge, and county commissioner. He served as a member of the House in the thirty-third legislative assembly in 1899 and rose to high positions in the Rio Arriba and Santa Fe County and state Republican Party organizations. As he hobnobbed with the power brokers in Santa Fe, he often advocated for the interests of his kin back home. But perhaps his most significant accomplishment was serving as a delegate to the convention that produced the New Mexico constitution in 1910—the document that gained New Mexico entry into the United States in 1912. Remarkably, Ortega accomplished all this without ever learning English and with minimal education.
Standing six feet four inches tall, Ortega was a commanding figure who fit the part of patrón well. Handsome, mustachioed, and always well-dressed, Ortega, still remembered as don Victor, came from a long line of leaders in Chimayó’s Plaza del Cerro. His father, José Ramón Ortega, the previous patrón of the plaza, served as sergeant-at-arms during the eleventh legislative assembly in 1861 and was a member of the sixteenth territorial assembly in 1866. He was a key figure in the Republican political machine in Rio Arriba County. Going back another generation, Ortega’s grandfather, Gervacio Ortega, was a justice of the peace and a member of the seventh legislative assembly of the territorial legislature in 1857. Back yet further, Gervacio’s grandfather, Grabiel Ortega, was a landowner of considerable property and influence, as evidenced by his signature on numerous legal documents in the area in the eighteenth century.1
The Ortegas were not the only Hispanic political figures to rise to positions of influence in the territorial or state governments. There were others, with deep roots in all parts of the state, and many of them participated in writing failed constitutions—in 1850, 1872, and 1889—that preceded the 1910 constitutional convention that Ortega attended. Indeed, the man that many considered to be the single most powerful figure in the convention was Salomón Luna, and surnames like Armijo, Otero, Martínez, Romero, and Vigil—thirty-two Hispanic names in all—were included on the roster of one hundred men who assembled at the Capitol in Santa Fe on October 3, 1910.2
Calling leaders such these patrones conjures notions of despotic rulers in an archaic, quasi-feudalistic society. In this view, people like Ortega might be seen as authoritarian and ruthless overlords in a culture of passive dependency. In their power and reach, some of the Hispanic power brokers at the constitutional convention may have approximated this caricature. For most, though, the story is not so simple, as a consideration of Ortega’s position in Chimayó demonstrates. Yes, he held sway as a dominant political figure, and the local people looked to him for counsel on questions of legal propriety. In addition to his political and governmental roles, he owned and ran the local mercantile store and served as postmaster for twenty-eight years. His record books indicate that he helped people by providing credit at his store and by granting outright loans to his neighbors to help them through tough times. As the region fell into the grip of the Great Depression, Ortega had the connections to help people find work in government programs.
Although there were patrones with a powerful grip entrenched in the sheep industry’s partido system, Ortega and other Hispanic community leaders in northern New Mexico did not fit the mold of the archetypal patrón, one who owned a vast parcel of land and controlled legions of peones, or laborers, perpetually in debt to their boss. Northern New Mexico offered little opportunity for this kind of arrangement, for there were few large tracts of grazing land available in the small valleys of the northern Rio Grande. In any case, the old patrón-peón dynamic in New Mexico had begun to break down decades before Ortega’s time.3 Another kind of patrón emerged in the region, one with less absolute power, engaged in a more reciprocal arrangement with the people in his community.4
This more accurately describes Ortega’s relationship with Chimayósos (people from Chimayó). Ortega provided petty loans, political favors, legal advice, and, sometimes, employment. His payback came at election time, when he called upon his friends and neighbors to vote Republican. Ortega, in turn, was beholden to the state Republican Party, which expected him to deliver votes—and he did, reliably, for many years, before the Great Depression turned the political order upside down.
One Chimayó elder described Ortega’s stature among Chimayósos like this: “Don Victor was a big man there [in the plaza]. He was a smart man … they considered him a guy that knew more about the things that went around, you know. He knew more than a lot of people around here.”5
Clearly, Ortega had a knack for small-town politics, but he also did well on the larger stage. There he drew strength from his ability to connect with those in positions of influence and from his public speaking skills. As Ortega’s son Ben explained to me in 1990, “He only went to school until the fourth grade, but he read a lot, and he had a vocabulary that most people didn’t have then, [even the] college men. And they’d seek him out for oratory, for the political conventions, for the state or county, and he’d speak for an hour, keep his audience, tell them jokes. He could keep an audience that long. He was very well known all over the state.”
The Santa Fe New Mexican described Ortega in similar terms when it editorialized upon his death in 1948, “A man with a keen but kindly sense of humor, [Ortega] usually had his audiences shaking with mirth. Knowing his people, he often spoke in parables, bringing in various ‘santos’—always to the benefit of the GOP.”
The “parables” mentioned in the newspaper almost certainly refer to dichos, the Spanish-language folk sayings that were once a regular part of daily parlance in northern New Mexico. These clever, often bitingly humorous sayings distill much of the wit and wisdom of northern New Mexico’s Hispanic culture. Deploying the dichos in his oratory must have endeared Ortega to a wide constituency of Spanish speakers, “his people.” Likewise, in making reference to santos—the numerous holy figures whom Catholics venerate and petition for intercession in daily tribulations—Ortega would have been paying homage to his roots, all in the service of the GOP.
It’s remarkable that Ortega drew accolades for invoking such folklore in his oratory, for at the time Hispanic culture was derided in the midwestern and eastern press and by elected officials in Washington who sought to deny New Mexico entry into the Union. With rhetoric that can only be described as racist, pols and pundits fearmongered about the danger of admitting New Mexico, a territory populated by Hispanic, Spanish-speaking Catholics. Typical were comments such as those made by the Chicago Tribune, which opined that New Mexico’s population was “not American, but ‘Greasers,’ persons ignorant of our laws, manners, customs, language, and institutions.” 6
This kind of overt racial bias makes it all the more astonishing that Ortega ascended to prominence in the Anglo-oriented political world without learning English. Some of the non- Hispanic politicos of his day would have spoken Spanish, at least in rudimentary fashion, but nevertheless it took a lot of pluck for Ortega to perform on the political stage as he did.
One of those Spanish-speaking Anglo politicians, Thomas B. Catron, was among Ortega’s close associates. A leading figure in the Republican Party of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Catron held numerous positions, including attorney general of the New Mexico Territory, US attorney, a member of the territorial legislative council, delegate to Congress, and, after statehood, the first senator from the state of New Mexico. But his legacy is not all positive. In many quarters, Catron has been consigned to infamy because of his participation in the Santa Fe Ring, a loose confederation of attorneys, politicians, land speculators, and others who amassed great wealth by acquiring, largely through knavery, vast landholdings in New Mexico, including many Spanish and Mexican land grants.
At one time Catron was the largest landowner in the US, holding interest in over six million acres in at least thirty-four land grants.7
Just as Ortega maintained a network of underlings (referred to as his “hijitos,” literally “little sons”), Catron, nearly twenty years Ortega’s senior, kept in tow a cadre of local politicians throughout the state from whom he could call in favors. He had a special penchant for recruiting and maintaining ties with Hispanic leaders, in part because he spoke Spanish fluently. (Legend has it that when territorial governor Edmund Ross told Catron he would be appointed attorney of the third district if he could learn to speak Spanish, Catron at once moved to Rio Arriba County and learned to speak it fluently in six months.)8 By all indications, Ortega was among Catron’s confidants and protégés, as well as his client.
Catron and the rest of the Santa Fe Ring advocated strongly for New Mexican statehood, and when a territorial initiative called for the election of delegates to a constitutional convention, he no doubt thought of Ortega as a candidate who would advance the Republican cause at the convention. With Catron’s support, and the overwhelming backing from voters in Santa Fe County, Ortega easily won election on June 28, 1910, as one of five delegates (all Republicans) from the county.
The Republican Party controlled a clear majority in the territorial legislature as well as the convention. Salomón Luna, the powerful chair of the Committee on Committees, appointed Ortega to the Committee on State, County, and Municipal Indebtedness and went to work on October 3, 1910.
The committee drafted Article IX, reflecting a conservative attitude toward public debt in any form—a personal aversion of Ortega’s, who always strove to keep Chimayó from taking on debts that would incur taxation. Democrats protested some sections of Article IX, just as they would later protest the overall constitution, but thanks to skillful maneuvering and the assurance of a strong block of support from Hispanics, a draft of the constitution was adopted by the constitutional convention on November 21, 1910. Not surprisingly, the constitution protected the economic and political interests of the Old Guard Republicans who dominated the convention and were entrenched in state government. It was far more conservative than the constitutions of other western states; it excluded progressive reforms such as a statewide initiative process or the direct election of senators, and it did not give women the right to vote. Also, recall was limited to local officials, and the referendum was restricted.9 (Interestingly, Ortega’s grandson, attorney Victor R. Ortega, was a member of the New Mexico Constitutional Revision Commission, whose recommendations led to a proposed new constitution for New Mexico in October, 1969; the new constitution failed to pass in a special election later that year.)
Although progressives were stymied at the convention, the constitution includes some unique elements with regard to protection of the rights of Spanish-speaking citizens. One can’t help assuming that the monoglot Ortega helped to advance them:
Section 3 of Article VII of the constitution states that “The right of any citizen of the state to vote, hold office, or sit upon juries, shall never be restricted, abridged or impaired on account of religion, race, language or color, or inability to speak, read or write the English or Spanish languages.”
Section 8, addressing teacher training, reads: “The legislature shall provide for the training of teachers in the normal schools or otherwise so that they may become proficient in both the English and Spanish languages, to qualify them to teach Spanish-speaking pupils and students in the public schools and educational institutions of the State.”
And Section 10 says: “Children of Spanish descent in the State of New Mexico shall never be denied the right and privilege of admission and attendance in the public schools or other public educational institutions of the State, and they shall never be classed in separate schools, but shall forever enjoy perfect equality with other children in all public schools and educational institutions of the State.”10
The constitution further makes Spanish an official language of the state, equal to English, and makes it obligatory that for the first twenty years of statehood, all laws be published in Spanish and English.
Even as he worked on the constitution and served in his political roles at the state and county levels, Ortega continued to manage his ranch in Chimayó and serve as the local patrón. “He would get up at day break to escardar [(weed],” Ben Ortega recalled. “All that property [behind the plaza] was his, and we used to plant it with corn, wheat, whatever crops. … Early in the morning he was out there, and we were out there with him.
“He was justice of the peace, and when something bad happened they’d go over there to see him first thing. Like when there was a murder in Cundiyo.
“And my father was one of those that fought the construction of the Santa Cruz dam,” Ben continued. “See, on account of the taxation to build the dam. He got the people that were against the dam to fight it in court, and they accepted. They didn’t want to pay the taxes.”
Ortega kept a library of law books, in Spanish and in English, which he referred to in order to advise his friends and neighbors on legal matters, although, as Victor’s grandson points out, he was never licensed to practice law.
Ortega came to the aid of Chimayó weaving businesses in 1908, when the board of the New Mexico Territorial Penitentiary was considering a plan to introduce carpet weaving as work for convicts. Chimayó weavers presented Ortega with a petition signed by more that fifty weavers who opposed the idea because they feared it would be detrimental to their own livelihoods. Ortega forwarded the petition to Catron with a request that Catron to speak with territorial governor George Curry about the plan. The governor replied to Catron, “Nothing will be done to compete with the people of Rio Arriba, or any other county in the territory, in their manufacture of blankets.”11
After the Depression, Ortega’s influence waned. Some of Ortega’s own hijitos became turncoats and joined the rising Democratic Party, a trend throughout the once predominantly Republican state. His power diminished as these new patrones made inroads into his turf and the majority of Hispanic voters, long a bastion of the Republican Party, jumped ship and joined the Democrats.
Victor Ortega was the last of the patrones of the Plaza del Cerro in Chimayó. A stalwart of the GOP, he was listening to the Republican National Convention on the radio in his Chimayó home when he died. His wake in the old plaza in Chimayó was a grand event that is remembered as well as the crafty politics and hometown kindnesses of the patrón himself.
“I remember that big, shiny black cars came and lined up all around the plaza,” recalls former plaza resident Aaron Martinez. “It was like a funeral for a head of state.”
“I was just a teenager,” Victor R. Ortega remembers, “but I was really impressed by the velorio [wake]. It seemed like it went on for days. He was lying in state in there, in his house, and the mournful singing and praying went on all night long. The two kitchens in his house were continually churning out food for the people who came and went—and there were a lot of them, Democrat and Republican, it didn’t matter. They all respected him. Big shot Democrats like US Senator Dennis Chávez, Lieutenant Governor Joe Montoya, and Governor Tom Mabry—who was also a delegate at the constitutional convention with my grandpa—were there.”
Victor de Jesus Ortega was laid to rest in the courtyard of the Santuario de Chimayó, which he had helped transfer to the ownership of the Catholic Church, thereby assuring its preservation as a treasured shrine. Although patronage politics in northern New Mexico is often disparaged, Ortega represented a kind of benevolent community leader whose relationship with his constituents edged toward the ideal of representative democracy. His knowledge of and intimate connection to his community allowed him to advocate for the concerns of his vecinos in the Plaza del Cerro and ordinary New Mexicans in other plaza towns. He was indeed farsighted, and his legacy stretches from that small valley churchyard where he lived to the Capitol in Santa Fe and beyond.
Notes
1. Ortega Papers, New Mexico State Records Center and Archives. His essay, “Saving History: Ortega Papers Trace Family’s Three Hundred Years in Chimayó,” appears in El Palacio 115 (2), spring 2010.
2. Rick Hendricks, “The Importance of the Constitution,” Office of the New Mexico State Historian, newmexicohistory.org/centennial/TheConstitution.html and newmexicohistory.org/centennial/Delegates/1-Delegates-splash.html.
3. Phillip Gonzales, “El Jefe: Bronson Cutting and the Politics of Hispano Interests in New Mexico, 1920–1935,” Aztlan 25, no. 2 (fall 2000): 77.
4. Clark Knowlten, “Patron-Peon Pattern among the Spanish Americans of New Mexico,” Social Forces 41, no. 1 (1962): 12–17.
5. My interviews with Camilo Trujillo, Jr. and other elders from Chimayó can be found at the Center for Southwest Research at the University of New Mexico, econtent.unm.edu/.
6. New Mexico Historical Review 37, no. 3 (July 1962): 169.
7. Michael Miller, “Lo de Mora: A History of the Mora Land Grant on the Eve of Transition,” Office of the New Mexico State Historian, newmexicohistory.org/filedetails.php?fileID=21925.
8. New Mexico Historical Review 37, no. 3 (July 1962): 163.
9. Calvin A. Roberts and Susan A. Roberts, New Mexico (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, rev. ed., 2006), p. 151; ballotpedia.org/wiki/index.php/Laws_governing_recall; Nathaniel A. Persily, “The Peculiar Geography of Direct Democracy: Why the Initiative, Referendum and Recall Developed in the American West,” Michigan Law and Policy Review 2 (1997): 11–41.
10. New Mexico State Constitution, photocopy of original posted at newmexicohistory.org/centennial/Constitution.html.
11. Robert J. Torrez, “A Protest by Chimayó Weavers,” Round the Roundhouse, Dec. 17, 1998–Jan. 28, 1999.
Don J. Usner (opens in a new tab) was born in 1957 in Embudo, New Mexico. He has written and provided photos for several books, including Sabino’s Map: Life in Chimayó’s Old Plaza, Benigna’s Chimayó: Cuentos from the Old Plaza, Valles Caldera: A Vision for New Mexico’s National Preserve, and Chasing Dichos through Chimayó. Don is also the photo editor consultant for the annual New Mexico Treasures Engagement Calendar published by the Museum of New Mexico Press.
The oldman who emerged from the New Mexico State Penitentiary in 1932 was a ghostly remnant of the dashing figure who once reminded people of Buffalo Bill. (more…)
I fell in love with with the Whole Earth before I fell in love with New Mexico— a hopeless infatuation.
It was right there under my feet, going nowhere at 67,000 miles an hour, but it remained distant, aloof, unobtainable, visible in its wholeness only from a place I couldn’t go. So for the past forty years I’ve settled for loving this small, perceptible piece of it.
In 1970 I was living in East Palo Alto, California, while attending graduate school at Stanford, on the other side of the freeway. This was the dawn of the computer age, and East Palo Alto was still a long way from becoming a bedroom community for Silicon Valley. It was a rough neighborhood, but that didn’t stop me from walking over to the All Nite Barbecue at any hour of the night for ribs or driving my black convertible VW into the ghetto to pick up a bottle of Night Train Express.
One afternoon in Menlo Park I discovered the Whole Earth Truck Store. I’d never heard of Stewart Brand or the Whole Earth Catalog and had yet to become fascinated by its ideal of a society in which people actually provided for themselves—rather than merely making money and depending on others for goods, shelter, and services. The store was mostly bare and didn’t seem to have anything to sell but the catalog, with its picture of the big, blue, cloudy Earth in space and its puzzling assortment of hardware and folksy wisdom, all of it falling into the universal category of “tools.”
On the wall was a blue and white poster showing some happy blue people, a massive blue structure with a domed roof, and a wide open, doubly blue sky advertising a place called Lama Foundation, in San Cristobal, New Mexico. Later on, when I was planning my escape from all that I had come to think of as the rat race—graduate school, career, the madness of cities—I kept remembering that blue poster in the Truck Store. “New Mexico,” a place I’d never been, became more an idea of sanctuary than a destination, an emblem at once of renunciation and revised hopes. What I was leaving behind was certainly more real to me than the unknown country that was about to swallow me whole, but I was determined to become one of the happy blue people on the mountain under that twice-blue sky.
Hard experience, rather than idealism, tipped the scales. One afternoon I was hanging out with one of my roomies when two men came into the house uninvited. One of them had a long-barrelled Colt .45 pistol, which he pointed at my head. His partner asked if we had any drugs or money. We didn’t. We were winos, not dopers, we protested; they could tell from our terrified faces that we were telling the truth. As punishment for not having anything worth stealing, one guy maced me, and the other fired two shots into the couch on his way out. It was a hippie couch; the bullet holes only enhanced its charm.
Then as now, New Mexico was not a place many people came from outside looking for a livelihood. The whole idea of the Whole Earth was to create a new economic paradigm, one in which we would not have to depend so heavily on earning and spending, to say nothing of borrowing. Who needed money? In New Mexico I would live the way people all over the world had lived ever since agriculture was invented—growing food, throwing together whatever kind of shelter the earth provided, making a fire when it got cold. If the VW broke down, there was always How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive, a book that had been written and published two years earlier, as it happened, in New Mexico.
I’d started practicing Zen meditation in California, driving the VW each morning to a small zendo in Los Altos presided over by a Japanese priest, Chino Sensei, and an American, Les Kaye, who traded robes for pinstripes after zazen and drove to his job as an engineer with IBM. Meeting someone who shaved his head and wore a tie, both, seriously undermined my notion that making money was incompatible with the life of the spirit, but not seriously enough to make me want to get a job.
The car had been a gift from my father, who had the ulterior motive of keeping me away from motorcycles. In April 1971, leaving the old life behind, I drove it from northern California to Albuquerque, then north into the Rio Grande gorge. During my two years at Lama Foundation, that car hauled crates of avocados, sacks of feed, pinto beans, and cement, whatever was on the list when it came my turn to go to town. When other vehicles broke down or got stuck in the mud, it became the camp truck (the commune was named “Lama” after La Lama, a neighboring settlement whose name means “mud, slime, ooze”). Eventually it went the way of all Bugs and threw a rod. I could rebuild the engine, right? What I failed to take into account was that John Muir, the author of the famous VW repair guide, had been an aerospace engineer for Lockheed before he dropped out.
At Lama I became immersed in what the Tibetan Buddhist teacher Chogyam Trungpa Rinpoche called “spiritual materialism”—our same old greedy human nature, only with spiritual attainment standing in for the usual measures of success. When he visited us at Lama, Trungpa, who was crippled, rode a white Pueblo pony along the paths of the commune, looking for all the world like a villager on horseback in Tibet. He took us and our enterprise to task by saying that what the community really needed was to take responsibility for a delegation of junkies—like the guys who murdered my couch in East Palo Alto—to test the depth of our compassion.
More and more I found myself escaping my escape— all the inevitable psychic noise of institutional life, even an institution like Lama that was dedicated to quiet contemplation. Sometimes alone, sometimes with friends, I took long walks on the mountain, learned the names of plants and animals, and started taking notes in a journal. On an indefinite “leave of absence” from the university, I came through the back door to my vocation as a writer—as an observer and chronicler of whatever I encountered on those walks. Instead of the Whole Earth, I went looking for the one Henry David Thoreau called “the actual world” (“Rocks! Trees! The actual world! The common sense!”). Come Sundays, when Lama was open to visitors and the residents led ecstatic Sufi dancing in the Dome, I took to the hills and walked barefoot in alpine meadows as a way of teaching myself to pay careful attention to the actual ground of our earthly being. This was the New Mexico that, unintentionally, I had come to find, and the one that’s kept me here for forty years.
I met my first wife, Molly, at Lama. We walked in the mountains, milked Emma, the cow, went to meetings of the Native American Church, and learned adobe construction from Henry Gomez, a Taos Pueblo man who worked for wages on the commune’s various building projects. Breathing woodsmoke all the time in my tipi was not uplifting, and when it got cold and wet in November, I moved in with Molly. Her wooden A-frame, in an aspen grove uphill from the main buildings, was almost as drafty as the tipi, but at least it had a stove.
Gradually I was relieved of my ideas about the moral advantages of living without modern conveniences. The following spring I lived in a cave for a couple of weeks before fleas drove me out. Once when I was visiting Henry and his wife, Susie, in Taos, before the pueblo was wired for electricity, I commented on the luxury of living with only the light from kerosene lanterns. Susie, a native of Acoma Pueblo, said, “Yeah, it’s nice if you don’t really need it. When I was a girl I practically ruined my eyesight learning to read by lantern light.”
During our second winter at Lama, Molly and I planned our getaway. We’d find some horses or mules and ride west into the sunset, headed for the canyon country of southeast Utah. The subject of how we’d survive when we got wherever we were going was not examined. Like so many others of our generation, we wanted to buy a piece of land and put the principles of the Whole Earth movement into practice, but neither of us had enough money to get started. When the VW blew up and I realized that I couldn’t even begin to fix it, one of the residents at Lama offered to pay for a new engine; instead, I sold it to a repair shop for $65—a decision I regret to this day.
My luck improved after that. Dennis Hopper, the actor, gave us two neurotic palomino horses. (The horses, also movie actors, were as crazy as Dennis; we traded them in for four mules who’d been punching cows all their lives in Chihuahua before being requisitioned by a local horse trader and smuggled across the border.) Then the decision-making body at Lama threw in with enough money for us to buy a pack outfit—panniers, saddles, tarps, ropes, and other assorted horse tack. In exchange we would write a book about our adventures, and Lama would publish it. At some point I announced to Molly that we were going to get married in a peyote meeting before we mounted up for Utah. She agreed.
Henry’s father, Joe Gomez, known to everyone as Little Joe, ran the meeting, and John Gomez, Henry’s uncle, attended. When John, the more cautious of the two brothers, learned that we were planning a honeymoon journey by mule to southeast Utah, taking us through Navajo country, he shook his head. “Them Navajos will steal your mules,” he said.
We were inexperienced enough to believe that no matter the dangers and obstacles, anything was possible if you set your heart on it, and innocent belief alone had an uncanny way of making things happen. If we had been able to anticipate all the troubles that ambushed us on that trip—snow drifts, fences, lost traveler’s checks, a runaway mule, if not Indian raids—we never would have left. Eventually, having gotten only as far as Durango, Colorado, with no hope of ever reaching Utah, we decided to cut our losses and hitched a ride with the mules back to New Mexico with a couple of cowpokes who’d adopted us in the San Juans, Willard and Clara Mae Gore. They took no pay for their trouble except a geriatric mule named JoP, who should have been dead long before then. I’d often wished she was.
New Mexico took us back, even though we’d set our fickle hearts on Utah, and provided for us in her New Mexico way: mucho trabajo, poco dinero. After I wrote the book for Lama Foundation—my first, Mostly Mules—Molly let it be known that it might be a good idea for me to find paid employment. This took me rather by surprise, but I gamely met the challenge, passing myself off as a veterinarian’s assistant until the veterinarian found someone prettier and more qualified; then as a mule trainer in California (the mules had different ideas about who was the trainer and who the trainee); then, back in New Mexico after a summer looking for land in eastern Oregon, as an adobero and carpenter, which I actually had some experience in from my time at Lama.
Then we got another one of those breaks resulting from ignorant ambition and fervent prayer. A relative gave us just enough money to buy a small piece of irrigated land west of the Rio Grande, in La Madera, and build a house, largely out of salvaged materials. I lost twenty pounds that summer, and when the house was finished, we were pretty much broke again, living thirty-five miles from the nearest town of any size, and pregnant. I and a neighbor, David Yates, a third-generation native of Española who spoke fluent norteño Spanish, built houses. Meanwhile, Molly made one-of-a-kind wearables from scratch, with wool from sheep she bred and raised and sheared, spun into yarn, and wove on a hand loom.
Nobody had warned us that self-sufficiency took such a lot of work or paid so poorly. On the morning our daughter, Hannah, was born, I had to leave her and Molly at the hospital in Española and drive home those thirty-five miles to milk the goat before returning to be with my family. Eventually I wrote a book called Birds of Sorrow about the life of that river junction, where we so earnestly pursued our vision of economic independence until our idealism wore thin.
I was born and raised in New York, but after forty years here I feel fully justified in calling myself a New Mexican—not only because of having lived here so long and adopting some of New Mexico’s ways, but because Hannah was born here, giving me rights of citizenship by virtue of being the father of a true native. As one who grew up in New Mexico and saw what it had to offer, she has sensibly chosen to spend her adult life in New York and San Francisco.
I find it amusing and perversely gratifying that to this day, a hundred years into statehood, many people in the United States still do not know that an entity known as “New Mexico” has joined the union. This sort of ignorance is more to be encouraged than complained about. I like thinking that I live in a foreign country and hope that someday we New Mexicans will have the good sense to secede, in which case all those who still don’t know that New Mexico is part of the US will have been justified all along in their conviction that we don’t belong.
For all its stubbornly sparing and provincial nature, New Mexico took me in and fed me long enough for me to arrive at an understanding that the world didn’t owe me a living. I came here for no other reason than to be here, and that has been nearly enough reason to stay. From what little I’ve seen of the rest of the world, I don’t think there are many other places I would have chosen to move to, if any, without a job or at least the prospect of some way to make a living. But on that day in April 1970 when the VW labored up out of the gorge and I saw for the first time the stunning expanse of Taos Plain, a nothingness stretching north into yet more nothingness, and the great rift of the gorge running through it which I couldn’t have perceived in its essence while I was driving through it any more than I could have perceived the whole earth without standing on the moon, getting a steady job was the last thing on my mind.
I successfully avoided thinking in those terms until the late 1980s, when I got a call from the Office of Archaeological Studies, a state agency, asking if I might be interested in working for them as an editor for a few months while the current editor was on leave. I’d been odd-jobbing it around Santa Fe and getting infrequent work with the Artists in the Schools Program, an opportunity to impress on young people the foolishness of taking up writing as a profession. By that time I was tired of hustling for crumbs, and the idea of a real job, with benefits and time off for good behavior, looked considerably better than it once had.
Archaeology: yet another thing that I was unqualified for. In a pinch it could be construed as a natural extension of the back-to-the-land movement, and even more hopeless in its aims, delving deeper into the earth than any practical consideration can justify. I liked the idea of working with people who found meaning where most of us see only dirt. Few professions worthy of the name could be any more antithetical to the prevailing, almost universally revered ethic of “growth” at any cost than one that strives to go backward and down, rather than forward and up, finding historical significance in slivers of stone no bigger than fingernail clippings or soil darkened by a campfire a thousand years ago.
The archaeologists had a pile of reports sitting on the shelf, they said, that needed whipping into shape before they could be published. Twenty-three years later, there’s still a pile of reports sitting on the shelf, and I’m still there, whipping. Some years ago we moved the office from the top floor of the old St. Vincent’s Hospital, where we had an unobstructed view of the mountains, to the basement of the Bataan Memorial Building (the people in charge figured that, being archaeologists, we’d feel more at home underground), where there’s no view at all. People newly arrived from Upper Earth are routinely asked about the weather.
But miracles continue to happen. Thanks to the vision and hard work of administrators, legislators, public-spirited New Mexicans, and dirt-grubbing archaeologists, they’ve built a new building for us—that is, for everyone—called the Center for New Mexico Archaeology. What’s more, one of those reports on the shelf at OAS is a testing report on the archaeology of Spaceport America, New Mexico’s launching ground for private trips into space, where for a small fortune you will be able to see a substantial part of the whole earth.
You might think that, as the director of the New Mexico History Museum, I am interested in all aspects of history, but I have to admit that I am partial to the time depth of archaeology and to the drama of our colonial history. (more…)
Numerous lectures, symposia, chautauquas, articles, books, and blogs about the long road to New Mexico statehood will inform you that it took four constitutions and four referenda, some fifteen congressional proposals, two enabling acts, six delegations to Washington, and sixty-two years for New Mexico Territory to become the State of New Mexico. (more…)
New Mexicans have always made art; we have always made aestheticized objects that reflect our worldviews. From beautifully made Paleo-Indian tools to contemporary art, New Mexico art has reflected changing technologies and ways of making a living, organizing our societies, and expressing our spirituality. (more…)